ADVANCED GROOMING TUTORIALS
The Sporting Trim
Equipment
Straight and curved shears
Wahl Clippers
#40 #30 #10 Blades
Wahl Clip on Comb Set
Grooming table
Grooming Loop
Grooming arm and clamp
Chris Christenson Spectrum One Shampoo and Conditioner
CCS Bottoms Up Spray
CCS “Thick n Thicker” Spray
Continuous Spray Bottle
CCS Coral Slicker
CCS Combs
Overview
Remember that you can change the look of the trim and the length of the hair to suit you or your clients needs simply by changing the clipper blades and combs recommended here. With a dog with a nice spring of rib you can take them as short on the body as possible. In this example, we have used a 5F blade. With the body tight the trim lasts a little longer between groomings. If you want the body a little longer go ahead and use a #1 or #2 comb over a #30 blade. The longer the body the longer and fuller the legs need to be in order to get the trim in balance.
Starting out
With all the hair on the body combed up and out start under the ear.Remove the grooming loop from the neck, hold the ear up and out of the way. Starting under the ear you will clipper straight down the neck and part way down the shoulder holding theclipper against the body of the dog. Midway through the shoulder you will start to move the clipper away from the body to skim the hair off the dog from midway down the shudder to the top of the front leg. This make it easier to get the legs blended naturally into the dog’s body.
Leave the chest hair to be trimmed later.
Keep clipping the sides of the neck being careful to leave the neck hair to be blended in later.
Another version of this trim, which some people like as it is less upkeep is when you have no mane or neck hair.To do this version you would clip all the neck hair off starting a couple inches below the occiput. Starting just below the withers of the dog continue clipping off the body hair going with the grain of the hair. Keep the clippers close to the body until you get to the waist line and then again move the clippers away from the body in a scooping motion towards the hip.
Clipper behind the elbow, around the body and continue clipping under the body to form the underline.
Rear Legs and Bevels
Take your comb and comb all the hair on the back of the back legs up and out.
Using a #1 comb over a #30 blade (if you are doing a miniature poodle or a toy poodle or simply want the angulation to be more pronounced you could use a #2 comb).
Start the clipper-work just below the pin bone.
From below the pin bone to the bend in the leg (where the legs bends at the back across from the stifle) you will press the clipper-comb to the dog’s leg as you trim BUT as you get to the bend you use a scooping motion and move the clipper away from the leg and pull the scooping motion towards the hock to create the angulation.
Picking up the opposite leg from the one you are working on you will clean up the inside of the first leg.
Go over the clipper-work several times so that you have less scissor work later on.
If your dog has a lot of hair on the sides of the rear legs you can clipper the tops of these rear legs to remove some of the bulk. Think of a terrier-type pattern as you remove the hair at the top outer portion of the leg leaving the furnishings at the front of the leg. In this area it is better to skim the hair off so the clipper is not pressed fully against the body at this time.
Trimming the bevels
To start the bevels you will comb all the hair down and around your clipper work
Start at the back side of the foot, place the shear on the clipper line and cut all the hair from the back of each foot
Starting at the back of the foot allows you to see how you will make your dog look like he is standing right up on his toes.
Continue this technique, combing the hair down the front of the feet and cutting the hair even with the clipper-work.
This is a great way to show off your dog’s good feet.
Finishing the back legs
Comb the hair up from the bevel.Shape the hair to look as perfectly as possible and spray with the CCS Thick n thicker.
Starting from the bevel with the shorter curved shear clean up the bevel and start scissoring up the leg
Switching to the straight shear come up the side of the leg scissoring the leg evenly into the hip
At this point stand at the back of your dog and decide where the leg will end and make sure it is even on both sides.We call this point the finish point.
Setting the finish point allows you to scissor up the side of each leg and have them end up relatively even at the end.
Comb and re spray so you can set the very important look of the back leg with ease.Continue scissoring until you have cleaned up all the way around the leg and on the inside of the leg as well.
Switching to a longer pair of straight shears to do the finish work will allow you to take fewer “cuts” and therefore can improve the look of your finish.
The insides of the back legs usually require a lot of scissoring.
Trimming the front legs
Now comb the legs and spray with CCS thick n thicker spray to help the legs hold the shape as you scissor
Comb all the leg hair up from the bevel and shake the leg so the hair lands naturally
Start at the bevel with the short curves and clean up the bevel
Then with a longer straight shear scissor the front leg straight and even paying close attention to the armpit area
You want a nice straight line from the shoulder all the way down the leg
We want the front legs to look like cylinders or stove pipes, we do not want them to taper like a table leg.
Remember to think in 3-d and make sure the leg is even and symmetrical all the way around.
Comb, shake and spray again and scissor with the straight shear all the way up the leg to the area that you already scissored with the curved shears.(shoulder and chest)
To finish the leg you can go back to the curved shear to tidy and check the roundness of the leg.
Make sure the insides of the legs are nice and straight as well.
Check the inside of the front legs from the rear angle as well.
Trimming the chest
Using the curved shears once again in reverse come up the front of the front leg and blend the top of the front leg into the chest hair.Be aware of the angulation you trimmed in in the back legs and be sure to balance the angulation in the front. Again this takes practice and your artistic interpretation of your dog’s angulation.
As you come up the front of the leg and start the upper angulation your curved shears are in the reverse position but as you get to the post sternum you will flip your shears back to the correct position to blend the rest of the chest into the neck
You are combing and re scissoring to get a smooth even look.
Topknot and neck
Taking the grooming noose off of your poodle safely comb out the entire head and neck. Often a little conditioning spray will help here.
To trim the neck and topknot be sure you are holding your poodle’s head in a normal position, you do not want your poodle’s head handling down or straight off the body at this point as this will result in the topline and neck transition not looking smooth when you are done.
Holding the ear up and out of your way you will use your shorter curved scissors in reverse and work on blending the neck into the topline starting at the withers and working your way up.
As you get to the ear flip the shears around the correct way and scissor in the sides of the hear/topknot. You will re comb the hair several times and re scissor until it is nice and smooth.
Let the ear drop down and at the top of the ear you will see a line that you have created from scissoring your neck.
Using the curved shears in reverse continue this line up and over the ear creating a bevel. This will be the base line/starting point of you creating the topknot. Once the bevel at the side of the topknot is done you will then comb al the topknot hair forward and down over the eye. Then take your curved shears held the correct way and trim in a nice visor.
Comb and re trim several times as with the longer topknot hair it will there will be more hairs that pop out and need to be trimmed. Then trim all the topknot all the way to one side and trim out any offending hairs. Repeat on the other side.
Then comb all the hair up and over the head into the neck. Gently grasp the ears and give the head a shake letting the hair fall naturally.
Now come up and over the topknot scissoring the hair as long or as short as you like and as long or short so that you think it looks balanced and pleasing to the trim.***if this trim is for yourself this is an easy decision but in a salon you would think of the client, how “fancy” they like their poodle to look and also how often the dog comes in for grooming.***
Continue scissoring over the top of the topknot and down into the neck so that it all blends together as one unit with no noticeable line between the topknot and neck hair.
As you come down the neck using the curved shears in the correct position, as you get below the occiput you will flip the shears backwards to help you transition the neck into the withers easier.
Be sure to check your trim from every angle and tidy up as necessary.
Finishing the trim
For nice full ears you can simply comb out the ear completely and then make a nice bevel with your curved shears at the bottom of the ear.
It should slightly resemble a crescent moon.
The fronts of the ears can be rounded a little more to help keep them out of your poodle’s mouth and thus cleaner.
Stand at the front of your poodle and make sure the ears are the same length and evenly shaped